Plumbing guide ยท Lake Elsinore, CA

Tankless vs Tank Water Heater

In the tankless vs tank water heater choice, tank heaters are simpler and cost less to install, while tankless heaters never run out but often need gas, vent or electrical work. Here is how to choose.

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Cutaway of a home showing the plumbing systemWater main and sewer main under the street, a water heater in the garage, a toilet, a kitchen sink, drain lines and the sewer line. Numbered hotspots link to services.Water mainSewer mainWater heater1Drains2Leaks and pipes3Sewer line4Toilets and fixtures5
  1. List your needsPeople, peak use, space, fuel.
  2. Check the houseGas size, vent route, panel.
  3. Plan the scaleHard water matters for both.
The short answer

Tankless vs tank water heater: the short version

At a glance
  • Tank: simpler and lower cost to installA tank heater is the familiar choice. It costs less to buy and install, and almost any plumber can service it.
  • Tankless: endless hot water, smaller footprintIt heats water as it flows, so it does not run out mid-shower, and it hangs on a wall.
  • Tankless needs the right gas and ventMany homes need a larger gas line or new venting. Electric tankless can need a big electrical load.
  • Hard water affects bothScale coats tank bottoms and tankless heat exchangers. Treating the water protects either choice.
  • Pick by household, not by hypeHot water habits, space, fuel and how long you will stay in the house decide it.
Side by side

Tankless vs tank water heater, compared on what matters

Start with the table, then read the sections that follow for the trade-offs that do not fit in a cell.

A tank heater keeps a volume of water hot all day so it is ready when you open a tap. A tankless heater turns on only when water flows, and a burner or element heats it on the way through. Both work well when they are sized and installed correctly. The question is which set of trade-offs suits your house.

Tank heaterTankless heater
How it worksStores and keeps 30 to 80 gallons hotHeats water only when a tap opens
Hot water supplyLimited to the tank; recovery takes timeContinuous, up to the unit’s flow limit
Typical lifespanAbout 8 to 12 yearsOften 15 to 20 years
Upfront cost and installLower; simple swap in most homesHigher; gas, vent or electrical changes are common
SpaceNeeds a floor spot of several square feetWall-mounted, much smaller
Standby lossTank loses heat while waitingNone, since nothing is stored
Power outageGas tank with a standing pilot may still heatNeeds electricity to run, even gas models
MaintenanceFlush the tank, check the anode rodDescale the heat exchanger on a schedule
RepairsWide parts supply; most plumbers know itSpecialized parts; fewer people can service some models
General comparison. Details depend on brand, model and fuel.
Understand the machines

What is actually different inside

The designs behave differently when hot water use is heavy.

A tank heats ahead of time

Cold water enters a tank through a dip tube and a gas burner or electric elements warm it. A thermostat keeps the stored water at its set temperature. When the tank empties, you wait for it to recover, which depends on the burner or elements. See the diagram for the parts. Our page on water heater repair covers faults in these parts.

Inside a tank heaterParts of a tank water heaterCold water inletand dip tube (dashed)Anode rodcorrodes in place of the tankScale and sedimentsettle here in hard waterHot water outletRelief valveand discharge pipeThermostatand controlsDrain valvewhere the tank is flushedGas burner or electric elements
Simplified tank heater, gas or electric.

A tankless unit heats on demand

When a tap opens, a flow sensor tells the control board to fire the burner or switch on elements. Water passes through a heat exchanger, which is a set of narrow passages with a large surface. The heater adjusts its output to match the flow and the incoming water temperature. If you ask for more than it can deliver, such as two showers and a dishwasher in a cold spell, the temperature drops. That is a size limit, not a malfunction.

Our tankless water heater page explains what installation and service involve.

Key tankless parts
  • Flow sensorDetects the open tap and starts the heater
  • Heat exchangerNarrow passages that warm the water
  • Burner or elementsThe heat source
  • Control boardAdjusts output to flow
  • Vent or exhaustCarries combustion gases out for gas units
Which fits you

Match the heater to your household

The tankless vs tank water heater answer is different for a family of five and a couple in a condo.

Questions that decide it

Count how many people shower in the morning and whether a laundry load runs at the same time. A tank sized for the household handles ordinary use but runs low during a busy morning. A tankless unit lets you stay in the shower as long as you like, but it has a flow ceiling, so a long list of simultaneous uses can exceed it.

Think about where it sits. A tank in an attic or an upstairs closet needs a drain pan, and a leak causes more damage there. A wall-hung tankless unit can free a garage corner. Think also about how long you will stay in the house, because a higher up-front cost pays back slowly.

Which suits which
  • Large household, back-to-back showersTankless supplies hot water without recovery time, up to its flow limit.
  • Small household or one bathroomA tank is often plenty and costs less.
  • Tight space or a wall-mount preferenceTankless frees the floor.
  • Rental or planning to move soonThe lower-cost tank may suit a shorter horizon.
  • Existing gas line is smallA tankless upgrade may need a larger line, which is real added work.
  • Prone to power outagesThink about what happens when the electricity fails.
Living with it

What each one is like day to day

Specs only go so far. This is how the two behave in a normal week.

Hot water, wait time and comfort

With a tank, the first shower of the morning is full of hot water, and the fourth person in the queue meets the bottom of the tank. Recovery time is the cost of storage. In July, when Lake Elsinore averages highs of 98 to 99 degrees, incoming water is warmer and a tank recovers a little faster. In winter, when overnight lows fall to the high 30s, the incoming water is colder and both types have more work to do.

With tankless, the water is hot for as long as the tap is open, but there is a short delay while the unit starts and the pipes clear of cool water. Some models need a minimum flow to light, which means a very slow trickle can turn the heater off and send a burst of cold water. A recirculation pump or a small buffer tank helps, and a plumber can advise on that.

Neither type will fix a hot-water complaint caused by low flow at the fixture. If you are fighting weak flow, start with our guide on why water pressure is low.

Day-to-day differences
Everyday situationTankTankless
Back-to-back showersRuns low on the third or fourthSteady, up to its flow limit
Quick hand washHot from the pipe already warmShort wait while it fires
Vacation, house emptyKeeps reheating unless turned downDoes nothing until a tap opens
Very low flowNo issueMay not trigger the burner
Large soaking tubCan empty the tankFills continuously
Service life

What each type needs to keep going

Both types ask for routine attention. Neglect shortens either.

A tank wants a flush, an anode rod check and a periodic look at the relief valve. A tankless unit wants descaling, clean air filters and intake screens, and a check of the vent. Gas units of either type need their vent inspected, because a blocked or damaged vent is a combustion and carbon monoxide concern. Leave vent and burner work to a plumber, and if a carbon monoxide alarm sounds, get everyone outside and call 911 from there. Our water heater repair page covers service on either type, and our noise guide explains sounds that signal trouble.

ItemTankTankless
Yearly lookBase, fittings, relief valveFilters, intake, vent, error history
Water treatmentSlows bottom scaleProtects the heat exchanger
Gas ventCheck for gaps and rustCheck, and clear condensate drain
Replace partsElements, rod, valvesSensors, fan, igniter
The hidden work

What converting to tankless can involve

The unit is only part of the job.

Swapping tank for tank is usually a like-for-like job. Going from tank to tankless often is not. The heater needs different venting and may need a bigger gas line or a new electrical circuit, and these are the reasons a tankless install costs more than the unit alone suggests. Ask a plumber to look at the gas size, vent path and electrical capacity before you decide.

  1. Gas supply

    A tankless gas unit draws a lot of gas for a short time. The existing pipe size and meter capacity may not be enough.

  2. Venting

    Tankless units often use different vent materials than tank heaters, and routing them to the outside takes planning.

  3. Electrical

    Gas models still need a power outlet; electric models need a large dedicated circuit.

  4. Water supply and drain

    Condensing models drain acidic condensate that must be handled correctly.

  5. Location

    Clearances, a wall that can bear the unit, and the distance to fixtures all matter.

Local water

Hard water: the maintenance issue for both

Neither type escapes scale, and tankless is less forgiving.

Scale in a tank and in a heat exchanger

EVMWD supplies most of the area from imported water, local groundwater and Canyon Lake. Hardness in its 2018 report ranged from about 92 ppm for State Project water to about 250 ppm for Canyon Lake. That works out to roughly 5 grains per gallon at the soft end and 12 to 15 for most sources. Which blend reaches your street varies.

In a tank, scale piles up on the bottom and shortens life. In a tankless unit, scale narrows the heat exchanger and causes error codes and weak flow. Descaling is routine for tankless owners in hard-water homes, and a water softener reduces how often. Our hard water guide covers the details.

Hardness by water sourceWater hardness by source, in parts per millionSoftModerately hardHardVery hardCanyon Lake14.6 grains per gallon250 ppmTemescal groundwater14.0 grains per gallon240 ppmColorado River (imported)13.3 grains per gallon228 ppmElsinore groundwater (avg)12.4 grains per gallon212 ppmState Project (imported)5.4 grains per gallon92 ppm0300 ppm
EVMWD 2018 water quality report, hardness as calcium carbonate.

TaskTankTankless
Flush or descaleDrain sediment from the tankCirculate a descaling solution through the heat exchanger
Why in hard waterScale piles on the bottom and coats elementsScale narrows the passages and cuts flow
Sign it is overdueRumbling, short hot waterError codes, fluctuating temperature, weaker flow
Water treatment helps?Yes, slows scaleYes, probably the single biggest help
Anode rod checkYesNot applicable
Follow the manufacturer’s maintenance steps for your model.
California requirements

Bracing and safety items apply to either choice

Choosing tankless does not exempt you from every code item.

What the rules cover

California Health and Safety Code section 19211 requires water heaters to be braced, anchored or strapped against earthquake motion. That applies to new and replacement tank heaters up to 120 gallons. The Riverside County handout lists straps, a relief drain to the outside, a drain pan in attics and upper floors, and insulation on the first five feet of hot pipe. A tankless unit has its own mounting, venting and gas requirements. Check the installation instructions from the manufacturer for the clearances and venting your model needs.

For tank replacements, see water heater replacement.

Code items to ask about
  • StrapsTank heaters, upper and lower third
  • Relief drainLeads to the outside
  • Drain panAttic and upper-floor installs
  • Pipe insulationFirst five feet of hot pipe
  • Gas and vent checksBoth types, if gas
Source: HSC 19211 and the Riverside County handout.
Make the call

A short way to settle tankless vs tank water heater

If you are still undecided, work through these steps.

Four steps to a decision

Write down your fuel, the number of people, the space, and how long you expect to stay. Then ask a plumber what your gas line, vent path and electrical panel allow. If the answers point to a simple swap, a tank is the practical choice. If the house already has the right gas size and vent route, and you want continuous hot water, tankless is worth the extra cost.

If your current heater is failing, our repair versus replacement guide helps decide whether to fix it, and how long water heaters last explains the age question.

How to decide
  1. List the facts

    Fuel, household size, space, plans.

  2. Check the house

    Gas size, vent path, electrical capacity.

  3. Compare the work

    Swap or conversion?

  4. Choose and plan

    Do it before the old one fails.

When to call

When to call a plumber

You can read all you like, but these call for someone to look at the house.

  1. Your heater is failing

    A leak or no hot water means deciding now, not eventually.

  2. You want to convert to tankless

    Gas line size, venting and electrical capacity need checking first.

  3. Your tankless unit shows error codes

    Scale in the heat exchanger is a common cause in hard water.

  4. You smell gas near any heater

    Leave the house and call the gas utility or 911 from outside.

Questions

Tankless versus tank questions

Tankless vs tank water heater: which is better for my house?
It depends on the house. Tankless gives continuous hot water, takes little space and often lasts longer, but it costs more to buy and install and may need gas, vent or electrical changes. A tank is simpler, costs less up front and is easy to service.
Do tankless water heaters really never run out?
They do not run out of stored water, but each unit has a flow limit. If too many fixtures draw at once, the temperature drops. Choosing the right size for your household is the key.
Do tankless heaters work in hard water?
They work, but scale builds in the narrow heat exchanger, and descaling becomes routine. Water treatment such as a softener helps. Hard water is common here, so plan for it.
How long does each type last?
Tank heaters commonly last about 8 to 12 years. Tankless units often reach 15 to 20 with maintenance. Hard water and neglected maintenance shorten both.
Does a tankless heater work in a power outage?
Most do not, including gas models, because the fan, sensors and control board need electricity. A gas tank heater with a standing pilot may still make hot water. Think about this if outages are common where you live.
Can I replace my tank heater with a tankless one?
Often, yes, but the job is bigger than a swap. Venting, gas size, electrical supply, and a drain for condensate may need work. Ask a plumber to check the house before you commit.
How much does a tankless installation cost compared with a tank?
Tankless costs more because the unit is pricier and the install often involves gas, vent and electrical changes. Fuel type, size, location and code items all move the price. Ask about pricing when you call.
Do tankless heaters save energy?
They avoid standby loss because nothing is stored, which can reduce energy use for lighter hot water demand. The saving depends on how much hot water you use and the fuel. Do not expect a fixed percentage.
Do I need earthquake straps for a tankless heater?
Strapping rules in California target tank heaters up to 120 gallons. A tankless unit has different mounting and venting requirements. Ask the plumber which mounting and venting your model needs.
What if my current tank is leaking?
Shut off the power or gas control and the cold supply valve at the top, then call. Same-day service is available and the line is open 24/7. A leaking tank means replacement, and that is a good moment to compare types.

Choosing a new water heater?

Call any hour and talk it through. Same-day service is available.

Call now, 24/7(951) 451-5200